A Cusco Beating

I will finish writing about Macchu Picchu.  There is a lot more story to tell about that.  At a later date.

This weekend we lose 6 roommates.  Thats about half our house!  I've become very close with them and am sad to see them go.  As it's been there last week, its been a big week.  We had our normal Wednesday night burgers, and Thursday we had a "weird food night."  We went to a local restaurant and ate what the locals eat...guinea pig, alpaca, and cow heart.  I didn't really care for the guinea pig, alpaca was good, and I surprisingly had a hard time getting over the fact that I was eating heart.  I'm not usually one to be squimish about those things.  Thursday night, after dinner we went to the discotecas.  It was a good night, but by the end I was a bit cranky and ended up walking home.  Alone.  (sorry mom).  Nothing happened.  I still had my wits about me enough to sense danger.  A Peruvian man escorted me for my safety part of the way.  But once he started kissing my fingers I thought I best finish the trek on my own.   It was fine.  I walked quickly and there was no one else on the street.  That being said, I'm not about to take that risk again.  When I was about at the corner of my street I heard a group of boys.  I don't think they even saw or heard me, but seeing them was enough to scare the shit outta me and I sprinted the last block to my house. 

Last night was our official send off for the roommates.  We hung out at the house, then we were off to the discotecas again.  On the way there I didn't see one of the missing cobblestones in the sidewalk and rolled my ankle.  Pretty badly.  We continued on to the club, I was hoping I could just dance it off with the help of some alcohol to numb the pain.  It worked for a little while, but by the time we hit the third club I was in some pretty serious pain.  Walking was a challenge and dancing a near impossibility.  I eventually and reluctantly gave up.  Monica, one of the girls in the house offered to go home with me.  I was really disappointed to leave early, it was definitely my favorite night out so far.

Today my ankle look like there's a tumor growing off the side of it.  I've been icing it on and off all day.  But I did manage to get my shoe back on to go to a Cusco vs. Lima soccer game!  I can honestly say that I never thought I would end up at a soccer game in South America.  Ever.  I'm glad I went, I got to see a new side of Cusco.  A much more lively side.  Usually what I see are very sad people on the streets, or very shady people trying to take advantage of tourists.  I feel like a better glimpse of what its like to live in Cusco.  At least for those people who watch soccer.

We had to take two taxis there, so our group got split up.  The stadium was a mad house, there was no way we were going to find our other friends (none of us have Peruvian cell phones).  So we bought our tickets, got in line and went in.  Unfortunately we were on the wrong side.  We walked in the Lima side.  the stadium is fenced off, so you can't just walk to the other side.  The away team is fenced in with barb wire and numerous police in full riot gear! There are also police in riot gear on the field.  Whenever the players go on or off the field the police create a line and hold their massive shields above there heads to protect the players and the refs. 

We quickly learned why there was so much police action.  The super fan section for the Lima team was insane.  INSANE.  They were jumping, shouting, singing, waving their shirts over their head, and setting off cherry bombs for the entire game.  Yea, that's right...cherry bombs!  They would clear a little circle, set off the bomb in the center, then jump around in the smoke. It was strange and also scared the piss outta me every time!  At one point there was a fight.  (why there was a fight when they were all Lima fans, I don't know).  But the police jumped into action, they grabbed some guy by the neck and dragged him down the stairs, then they slammed him into the concrete and hit him a few times with their billy clubs.  Gotta love cops.  It was really disconcerting to watch.  I was not comfortable with it.  The other people in the mob started dispersing after that and things calmed down thankfully.    Later when Lima scored a goal, I looked straight over to that section and saw all the women and kids running away from them.   

We decided it was in our best interest to leave a few minutes before the game ended.  Lima was about to lose and we were on the wrong side, we needed a taxi and I was a gimp.  So we left about 5 minutes before it ended, which worked out pretty well.  As we walked through the gravelly grassy area outside the stadium, my roommate Madi, who was wearing flip flops, accidently stepped on a stick with one foot, and then proceeded to get that stick stuck in her other foot.  Badly.  We thought it was stuck in maybe a half an inch, so we were just going to help her limp home and painfully dig it out.  A few steps later she had to take her flip flop off because it was bothering her and then she noticed that the stick was nearly sticking out the other side of her foot!  It was about 2 inches long.  We went staight to the hospital.  (and thank god we left early cuz it was difficult getting a taxi, I can't imagine how it would have been with the other thousands of people from the stadium out there).  When Madi got back from the hospital she said they numbed her foot, cut it open, got the stick out, and stitched her back up.  All for 20soles (about $8).  Cusco has a way of beating you up. 

That was my weekend, and its only Saturday!  Right now I'm sitting in Alejandra's room while she writes in her journal and Jesse uses my computer to edit his photos.  Still loving our little family.  Tomorrow we've decided to take a day trip to Pisac, a small town in the Sacred Valley.  One last family outing!

Goodnight!

The lost city of the Incas

I'm going to break up the tale of Macchu Picchu into a few different posts to make it more palatable.  It was quite the trip.  I'm going to skip over the chronological run down and start with the history of Macchu Picchu that we learned from our tour guide.  

As we were walking up to Macchu Picchu and dying and wondering why the hell they would build on top of the mountain....our guide explains that Incas built it on top as protection.  Anyone wanting to invade would have to climb the mountains from the Rio Urubamba.  Because of that, the Spaniards never invaded Macchu Picchu, they didn't even know it was there.

The Inca empire was pretty much the whole west coast of South America, with Cusco in the center as the capital.  All roads lead to Cusco.  When the Spaniards invaded and the last Inca king staged a revolution, the people of Macchu Picchu slowly abandoned it to make way toward Cusco to fight in the revolution.  Unfortunately, the last Inca king was captured and publicly murdered, effecting killing off the Incas.  Inca was a monarchy, so when the last Inca king was killed, there were no more kings, therefore no more Incas.

In 1911, a guy named Bingham from Hawaii decided to try to find the lost city of the Incas.  He knew that all civilizations are built near water, so he followed the Rio Urubamba, eventually meeting a local man who didn't know about the lost city, but knew about Macchu Picchu.  He took Bingham to the top, where there were 4 families living there!  But it was extremely overgrown by 150 years of being mostly uninhabited.  He got money from Yale University of excavate and research.  They spent a few years cleaning and sending artifacts back to Yale to be researched and cataloged.  Around the 1950's Macchu Picchu became a tourist attraction.

Unfortunately, the tarnish on the story is that Yale never gave back the artifacts that Bingham sent up.  Last year, the Peruvian government took Yale to court  over the stolen artifacts.  Yale gave back about 25% of the artifacts.  Peruvians are still hoping they'll get the other 75% back.

View of Macchu Picchu from Hyanapicchu the mountain overlooking the city. Macchu Picchu means big mountain in Quechua.  Photo care of my roommate Ben, the photographer.

View of Hyanapicchu, meaning little mountain from Macchu Picchu.  That was the second mountain we climbed to the top of.  But more about that in the next post where I whinge about how hard it was.  Photo also care of Ben.

Lake Titicaca

I've been slacking in the updates.  My internet is good, but a bit slow when it comes to uploading photos, so I've been procrastinating posting.  Sorry.  (Also, all my photos are in RAW because of the photo project, but more on that later)

Anyways, my first weekend in Peru I went with 6 of my roommates to Puno and Lake Titicaca.  I wanted to go to Lake Titicaca since I learned it was in Peru, but I didn't know why it was so famous, other than its 2nd grade funny name.  Well, it is the highest lake in the world.  At 3,800 meters (12,500ft) above sea level.  We took an overnight bus from Cusco to Puno, got picked up at the bus station at 4:30am and taken to a hostel to sleep and have breakfast.  

From there we got on an old rickety boat on the lake and taken to the Uros Islands.  Uros islands are floating reed islands.  I believe they were made by the Incas to get away from the Spanish.  The President of the Island we were on showed us how they were made.  There's about 3 meters of reed roots tied together, and on top of that dried reeds are laid criss-cross on top about a meter deep.  Then they just build their huts on top. Walking on the islands, you can tell its floating, every step sinks a bit.  

The Uros islands, while cool...are a bit of  a tourist trap.  They give you a little presentation, let you see inside their huts, then try to sell you things.  And boy did I fall for it!  I spent like 30soles on the island, which is a lot of my tight tight budget.  The President took a few of us into his hut.  Inside he had two cute little boys laying in bed....watching TV!  Yup.  And island with no electricity that is supposed to be living old school ways...the President has solar panels!!  I thought this was kinda sad.  Yea, its cool that they can bring technology to them, but TV, really?  Gentrification at its finest my friends!  Regardless, they were very nice.  They let us take pictures without charging us, which is always nice.  In Cusco, to take a picture of someone is 1sol. 

From Uros we got back on the boat for a 3 hour ride to the island Amantani.  We were told they didn't have electricity either, but that was a lie.  There were power lines on the island (not much, but they were there.)  We were also told they only speak Quechua (the native language) but our host family spoke Spanish.  One thing they did tell us that was true was that it was going to be crazy cold at night!  And it was.  But our host gave us hats to wear, especially for when we were sleeping.  (which she later sold to us).  But after lunch we walked with our tour up to the top of the mountain on the island.  It was 4,100m above sea level.  The walk was easy, not a hike, just walking up a path...but oh my god was it hard!  I honestly think it may have been the most physically demanding thing I've ever done....solely because of the altitude.  My body wanted to keep going but I just could not breath.  That must be how life long smokers feel!  The top was cool and pretty though, and I have a gazillion pictures!  Hooray!

When we got back down the mountain my roommates and I decided to stop and share a bottle of wine at the only shop in the community.  Its a really great group.  Then we had dinner with our respective families and they dressed us up in traditional dresses of the island and had a fiesta!  The dresses were great, a white tunic with embroidered flowers, two giant colorful skirts, and a belt.  The host wife made fun of my size the whole time she was helping me put this costume over my clothes.  Then they cinch you up with the belt...like old corsets.  Of course cinching the belt made the skirts bulge...to which the wife patted my belly saying "tu baby."  Gee thanks.  Peruvian women are quite small....does a number on the ole self confidence.  But the party was really fun!  me and the other two girls, Alejandra and Jill walked back up the hill and met the boys (who were dressed in wool ponchos).  We danced the night away.  Now I know why they are so small!  It was crazy exhausting!

The next day after a traditional breakfast with the family we got back on the boat and went to the Island Tequile.  We walked up the mountain to the center.  It was easier than the day before.  Then we had lunch at a restaurant type place.  They served us trout from Lake Titicaca that they had caught that day.  It was really good!  And they danced and sang for us and let us take pictures.  

After that it was a 3 hour boat ride back to Puno.  We had 5 hours to kill in Puno but it was Easter Sunday, so there wasn't much open.  We stopped at a tourist bar for awhile, then had dinner at a local restaurant (one of my only times eating out), then to the overnight bus back to Cusco!  It was a great trip. We're going to Macchu Picchu this weekend...can't wait!

The Power of Friendship

As I mentioned in the last post, there's a lot of roommate love going on.  In a family kind of way.  There are 14 of us in the house, and we all get along quite well.  We spend a lot of time talking about how much we like each  other and the vibe of the house.  Some have even been moved to tears (on multiple occasions).  I swear, we're going to start singing Kumbayah pretty soon.  We know how corny it is, and we relish in it.

Cuzco isn't the most dangerous place in the world, nor is it the safest.  I think that is why our house has bonded so strongly so quickly.  Most of us speak rusty Spanish at best and we're in this place that could really take us for granted because of it. I came in with a bit of a negative attitude, but despite my preconceived notions, each person in the house has managed to win me over.  Not like I'm the toughest person to win over, but still.  And knowing that I have 13 people out here who have my back is a very powerful feeling.

Tonight, 7 of us are leaving together on a night bus to Puno to see Lake Titicaca.  Its a trip I wouldn't have had the courage to do on my own.  I would've done it, but I would have signed up with our program, gone alone and been totally ripped off.  (we got the bus and the all inclusive tour for $95).  The tour we set up will pick us up from the bus station and take us on a two day tour of the Lake.  We will visit 3 of the floating reed islands and stay with an indigenous family on one of the islands.  It's going to be awesome.   Seeing Lake Titicaca is awesome, seeing Lake Titicaca with 6 friends that feel like family is epic AND awesome.

Without further ado, I present to you, my housemates:

Its not the best picture, but its first pic we have of most the house.  Left to right: Evan, who got cut off is from LA, Maddie from Canada, Ben from Germany, Jesse (Rasta Man) from Australia, me, Amy from Canada, Liza from Canada, Alejandra from Puerto Rico, and Rose from Canada.

Not pictured is Jill from Chicago, Elaine from Ireland, Adrian from Trinidad, and Min-ho from New York.  Also, not to be left out is Sylvia our house manager and Priscilla our professional chef.

Its a pretty good house.  I'm already anticipating how much it will suck when they all start leaving.  Whoever comes in is going to have big shoes to fill.

Settling In

Hola de Cuzco!

I'm settling into Cusco just fine.  My house is pretty awesome, there's lots of housemate love going on.

I got pretty lucky that the class was canceled this week.  I was under the impression I was going to be a teacher's assistant since I am not TEFL certified.  Turns out I'm not the assistant, I'm the teacher.  They expected my to teach on Monday, with only a 30 min crash course on teaching English and never seeing the site or meeting the women I'll be teaching.  If that weren't stressful enough, I never saw a curriculum and they handed me disorganized notes from the previous teacher 30 minutes before going to the class.  I was REALLY annoyed.  I was a bit indigent with the program coordinator.  But since its Semana Santa (holy week) and its a Catholic program, its canceled this week!  Sweet.  

Most of Peru shuts down for Semana Santa.  Cuzco mostly stays open through the week because its a tourist town, but everything's gonna be shut this weekend.  Since I haven't had to teach all week, all I had to do was Spanish class Tuesday and Wednesday.  I'm taking a week of private lessons then I'm going to sign up for a tandom program, where they pair you with a local to get together and chat. Spanish class was canceled yesterday and today.  So I went with Alejandra, my housemate, to the old folks home to help out yesterday.  It was incredibly uncomfortable. I have a hard time interacting with elderly when they speak English, these women if they can speak at all speak Quechua, the native language in Cuzco.  Alejandra and I both skipped today because our whole house had the day off.  They are ok with volunteers taking days off, which is nice.

Cusco, Day 1

My thoughts are a bit disorganized, but I want to share my day while its still fresh.  So bare with me.  

My flight was long, I arrived in Lima at 4:30am and had a 5 hour lay over.  I finally got to Cusco at 11, I gathered my bag and walked out the airport to an insane amount of people waiting to pick people up.  I was overwhelmed from the get go trying to find the guy with my name on his sign.  I finally find him, he puts me in a taxi, gives the driver instructions in Spanish that I can't understand, then shuts the door.  If I was going to give advice to anyone else wanting to do this, my first thing I would say is that you have be able to trust other people a lot.  I was completely dependent on these guys who I couldn't understand.  It was an uneasy feeling.  But, obviously, everything worked out.  We went to the office, then to my accommodation. 

My accommodation is so much better than I anticipated!  The house is actually really nice, there's a living room, (where my roommates are currently watching Hunger Games that they bought at the market for 3.5soles (which is about $1.50)).  My room is upstairs where I have a double sized bed with bureau.  I room with two 19 year old Canadians.  It's their first day too.  The view is pretty great and there's a roof top with a great view of the mountains and the city.  

My meals are provided.  So far I've had two.  And they are the best meals I have ever had.  Period.  (sorry Sherie).  I've already decided to bring home a cook book and learn how to cook Peruvian food.  I will take pictures of future meals now that I know they are so good.  Tonight we had some type of white flakey fish with onions and tomatoes and strange potato like thing.  

I had orientation today, it made me feel much better about this whole program.  I was very in the dark until I showed up. Again, with the trust thing.  Some tips I've learned, (I'm looking at you Caitlin!) there is no need to go through International Volunteer Headquarter.  I was happy with them until I got here to Cusco and realized that I could have volunteered directly with Maximo Nivel.  I don't know what the cost of volunteering with Maximo is compared to what I paid, but I do know that the guy who went directly though Maximo gets FREE spanish lessons!  I have to pay $60 or $70/ week.  

Tomorrow I get to learn about my project and see the site where I'll be working.  There's another girl in the house who's working at old folks home. She likes it there, but shes in the medical program. But at least I might have someone to walk with.  So in my house, there is an Australian Rasta man, a German photographer, a girl from Chicago (!), a couple Canadian girls, an Irish chick and a girl from Puerto Rico. Its a nice combination.  

Overall an intense but very good day :)  Oh and there was a parade today!